Innovation That Matters

Just returning from a week of ski touring and winter camping in the beautiful Dalarna region of Sweden. As we did last summer, we entrusted organising gear, guides and logistics to the lovely people of DoTheNorth. 

Thomas, Katta, Zina and the DoTheNorth crew ensured that despite the sub-zero temperatures we were (very) well fed, our first-class gear was ready, and the cabin and sauna were warm and cosy.

Our trip started with an overnight in Stockholm, and we treated ourselves to a pilgrimage to the amazing Ekstedt Restaurant — where all the local produce is smoked or cooked on open fires. A perfect start to our wilderness adventure!

After dinner we strolled across town, our boots crunching satisfyingly in the snow, to a cosy room under the eaves in Hotel Skeppsholmen. Stockholm by night, under a silent shroud of sparkling snow, was enchanting and we soon collapsed, bellies too full, into bed.

After a lovely Scandinavian breakfast (rye bread and pickled herring for me!) we crisscrossed the bridges to the old-town, before boarding our train heading northwards to Mora.

The Swedes know how to run a train service that operates in the snow, and we arrived on time, and for a fraction of the cost of a comparable journey in the UK. Descending at Mora Strand we crunched our way down the already dark streets of Mora, catching our breath in the cold night air, to Hotell Fridhemsgatan. After a quick meal at the hotel we headed out to pub-crawl the town’s two pubs: The Bear and O’Learys. At 14 GBP for a pint and a large white wine the prices for alcohol were high, but not much more than London.

The next day we visited the Zorn Museum which has an excellent selection of Zorn’s works. Zorn was internationally renowned in his day, and was born in a small farmstead not far from Mora. 

Lunch was accompanied by a delicious Semla – a Swedish filled cream bun, traditionally eaten for Lent. Worth the trip to Sweden alone in my glutinous opinion!

Katta then drove us even further north, the headlights of the minibus bouncing off the pearly white snow and accentuating the deep black of the forest encasing the road. After hasty introductions to our travelling companions we settled down for a one hour drive. Each turning reduced the width of the road further, until we inched our way up a snow filled track to our cabin, home for the next two nights. We walked the last 200 meters to the cabin, drawn like moths by dozens of candles leading our way, and straining to perceive our surroundings in the absolute silence of the cold, dark Swedish night.

Admirably fed, and installed in our bunk rooms (a couple to each room) we retired to bed early, fretting about our gear, ability to ski, the cold, and dreaming of Pippi, Moomins and The Snowman…

The next day we headed out to learn the rudiments of cross country skiing, under the patient tutelage of Thomas, our guide. Uphill and flat were relatively easy, while downhill sections were a challenge!

After dinner and a soothing sauna we collapsed in our bunks: tired but happy that we’d not made a complete hash of skiing and that we’d been more than warm enough. 

The second day was all about getting used to skiing in deeper powder snow and moving through the forest, crossing snow covered streams and dealing with steeper terrain. We skied until about 3pm and then headed back to the cabin to organise our gear (sleds!) for day 3.

We woke early on day 3 and pulled our sleds down to the minibuses that would take us to Fulufjället national park. We each had a sled loaded with food, tent, sleeping matts/bags etc. Everything required to spend 50+ hours in the cold and snow.

Skiing with the sleds was not too challenging on the flat, but as the gradient and headwinds increased, we began to strain and slip, fighting our way up to a plateau. After a couple of hours Thomas made the call that we would drop back down below the tree line and setup camp on the leeward side of an escarpment. Immediately we were out of the wind the going became easier and we spent a couple of hours unloading sleds, pitching tents and digging trenches between the tents, allowing us to move around the camp without putting on our skis.

With temperature around -10 degrees centigrade even mundane tasks became a challenge, with management of gear and humidity paramount. Our sleeping bags (rated to -30) kept us snug and warm but we slept fitfully, worrying that our boots would be frozen solid, or that we’d have to heed the call of nature during the night!

We awoke to absolute silence, with the sun just peeking above the horizon, and a dusting of snow on our tents. The wind had dropped and the conditions looked good for another attempt at reaching the plateau – this time without sleds to slow us down, or a headwind.

Once up on the plateau we took a break for lunch and then followed the Kungsleden trail for a few kilometres, before circling back to our camp. On our return we took the opportunity to peek into some snow caves that were being dug by students of the mountain school. After 4+ hours of digging the students had a nice cosy snow hole to sleep in.

Our second night under canvas was uneventful — perhaps due to tiredness, or just feeling more relaxed I slept well, was more than warm enough and woke to another beautiful morning. We spent a couple of hours making breakfast and lunch and then striking camp and repacking our sleds, before skiing back down to the minibuses and civilisation. High-fives all around, we’d survived!

Our last night back in the cabin was accompanied by a long leisurely sauna, swapped tales of daring-do, games and a dram or two of whiskey… Perfect to unwind and prepare for our return to the trials of daily life.

Here’s to more snowy adventures to come!